Jun 08 2008
French Polynesia Trip Log
The secret to a successful flotilla is research and planning. I spent months pouring over other people’s trip logs and reports of anchorages in French Polynesia. I kept a score card and at the end I added up which anchorages and destinations got the most kudos from others. From there it was just a matter of piecing it together in a cohesive itinerary. We only veered away from the plan when some weather came up one afternoon and we sought out refuge in a bay.
Day 1 - After boat and chart briefings at the SunSail Base on Raiatea we departed about 1pm for the short trip across the Grand Banc Lagoon to Taha’a Baie Haamene and the moorings I reserved at The Hibiscus Restaurant. Contrary to some people’s report, we were welcomed warmly by the proprietor,Leo, and we basically had the whole place to ourselves. He even arranged a show by a local troupe which was fabulous and treated us to a true Polynesian Buffet feast served in hollowed out bamboo “plates”.
Day 2 - Back across the lagoon to Uturoa town to provision. We anchored out and dingyed in to the town dock with a large grocery store directly adjacent and the market next door. Found a truck called the Creaperrie and indulged in an awesome sandwich which consisted of a omlette with ham, gruyere and pomme frittes in a toasted baguette. Yum ! We then motored one more time across the lagoon to Ile Mahaea next to Passe Toahotu which would be our exit the next morning form the lagoon for our crossing to Huahine.
Day 3 - Up early we made the 20 mile crossing to Huahine in a little more than 4 hours sailing and motorsailing in winds that ranged from 8-15 knots and gentle seas. We came in through Passe Avemoa in front of Fare town. We topped off our water tanks at the little town dock and anchored off the town so the boys could surf the pass break which was producing a perfect left. We ate at the famous lineup of trucks in front of the commercial wharf and watched the island trader load and unload its cargo which was fascinating.
Day 4 & 5 - We traveled to the end of Huahine, 8 miles inside the lagoon to Avea Bay. Paradise found about sums it up. 2 days was not enough but it was better than just one. We snorkeled in the clearest water and most abundant coral and fish I have ever seen. Fabulous sunsets over Raiatea and a restaurant to sample each evening with incredible local seafood and an endless supply of poisson cru.
Day 6 - Early departure back up the lagoon to Fare town where all but us needed water. We shopped at the giant store which literally had everything including fine french wine. By 10:30 we were out the pass and on our way crossing back over to Raiatea, 21nm, where we came in through Passe Teavamoa and proceeded to anchor at the very bottom of the island behind Isle Naonao, an exceptionally idylic spot with awesome snorkeling as well.
Day 7 - We headed up the west coast of Raiatea and exited Passe Toamaro. We had set out expecting to cross to Bora Bora from here. But it was going to be over 30 miles and there was a call for no wind today and more wind tomorrow. So we stopped back at the SunSail base for free water because it was on our way to the West Coast of Taha’a. Our intial plan was to anchor at Ile Tehotu at the top of the island but the light was getting sketchy and the winds predicted for the next day were already there. We retreated back to Baie Tapuomu which faces Private Island Resort. Anchoring here was a little tricky and I spent from 4am to sunrise with my hand on the engine key ready to move if the wind put us against the lee shore any more than it was beginning to do.
Day 8 - We celebrated having a vacation longer than 7 days by sailing out Passe Paipai on Taha’a under a single reef. The 20 mile crossing was highlighted by consistent winds in the high 20’s, a rollicking sea and boat speed in the low 9’s. The quick ride was only interrupted when the reefing line parted which caused quite a bit of confusion for a few minutes. The sound had me looking up to make sure we still had a mast. We made do the best we could in the conditions and limped our way into Bora Bora’s huge lagoon bay. The wind was howling there and we even saw a gust over 40 knots. Luckily, everyone got a mooring; 3 at Bora Bora Yacht Club and one at Bloody Mary’s where we all ate that night.
Day 9 - we stopped at Vaitape town wharf and topped off our water and did a little shopping before heading to Bai Tehou on the outside of the Toopua Motu. For me, this was the most brilliant anchorage of the trip - if one could really be better than the next. We found incredible snorkeling and all the time the craggy peak of the legendary island loomed over us. Even though BB is by far a tourist trap these days, we felt completely removed from all the hubub at this spot.
Day 10 - We were out the Passe Teavanui early in the morning for our passage back to Taha’a and were snugly anchored in there at Ile Tehotu where we had aborted a few days earlier. We were greatly rewarded with more great snorkeling, an incredible sunset over Bora Bora and an even finer sunrise the next morning.
Day 11 - Our last morning we headed out leisurely and sailed out Passe Paipai on Taha’a and into Passe Rautoanui on Raiatea. It was fittingly a wonderful sail in 15 knots of wind that brought us back to the SunSail base at the required noon hour.
One thing that made our adventure totally stress free was extensions on either side of the sail. We spent our first two nights at the Hawaiki Nui hotel on Raiatea and highly recommend it. We spent our last two nights on Tahiti at the Radisson Resort which was nice but I wouldnt recommend it because of their out of the way location. We had had all the out of the way we needed when sailing.
